El Chalten, Argentina

Lago Roca

After weeks of driving, surviving the trauma of a transportation break down, and several funky showers, we were ready for a break. We found a little slice of camping heaven in Lago Roca where we could unwind and enjoy a few creature comforts while relishing the outdoors. After a great visit to Perito Moreno Glacier, we decided not to head back into El Calafate (the closest town) but took yet another unknown dirt road in hopes of finding a little peace and quiet. We hit the jackpot! Lago Roca is the southern section of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares in southwest Argentina. Nestled alongside the lake is this fantastic, full service campground complete with a clean community kitchen, restaurant and bar, pool tables and a rec room, and shower facilities so nice they beat some hotels we’ve stayed in. Our campsite provided us with spectacular views of the mountains, glaciers, and lake. We decided to stay and relax for a few days. The weather was very cooperative, and after a wonderful dinner of breaded chicken cutlets and veggies prepared by Chef Michael, we sat out under the southern sky and star gazed while enjoying a little vino tinto. During the days, we set up the hammock and did a little wildlife watching, spotting many different bird species, wild hares, horses, and the occasional fox. We also took a few nice walks, including one to a cave to see 10,000 year old cave paintings done by some of the earliest locals. We enjoyed every moment of our time in Lago Roca. The morning we left, as we packed up our campsite, we were treated to a visit from a family of Magellanic Woodpeckers – a female, an adult male, and a juvenile male. We couldn’t take our eyes off them! They put on quite a show for us, digging and clawing large grubs out of the dead trees. The juvenile tried and tried, but couldn’t quite get it. He would squawk, and it was Dad to the rescue with a juicy snack! What a show! And a wonderful way to end our time in this amazing place.

Parque Nacional Los Glaciers

A really nice visit to Perito Moreno Glacier in Argentina. We got to the glacier after the tour buses left, and watched the wall of ice for several hours. More to come soon...
mc

Torres del Paine

After meeting Bubble Tea, our plan was to see the mountains! From Punta Arenas, we moved north to Puerto Natales. This small coastal town is the southern terminal for the Chilean ferry system, as well as the jumping point for trips to Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. As we crested the hill and entered town, we both were hit with thoughts of Southeast Alaska, as the peaks rising from the inlet reminded us of Haines, AK very much. That evening we were treated to the most amazing cloud formations imagined during the sunset.
Early next morning we continued north into Torres del Paine. This is Patagonia's most visited park, with about 120,000 folks making the trip deep into the mountains every year. We entered the park from the south, and found this to be a fantastic road toward the towering granite peaks. Views of the glacier and the towers were to be had all day, with excellent weather to boot. We found a sheltered spot at the outskirts of camp, and tucked in. Rain came, and lasted all night, with a cold snap attached. The snow level had dropped to about 400 meters and the foothills were blanketed with a nice dusting. We decided to skip the start of our hike and sleep in. Next day was dry, but the cloud cover was still draped over the peaks. We started early, and took the trail that led up to the Mirador los Torres, an 18 km. hike that took you right up to the giant granite towers. A good, long hike with very strong winds and whiteout conditions at the top. Next day as we left the clouds moved on as well, giving us great views of the peaks from afar.

Memorial to Brian

On our wedding day when we told each other we would go to the ends of the earth with one another, we never expected that trip to take place in a tow truck. But that is the true adventure of traveling to a place you have never been before - you are never sure exactly what to expect. Our camper van, Brian, is no more. After our wonderful visit to Puerto Deseado we headed south across the desert en route to Rio Gallegos. After driving for about 250 kilometers, we stopped in a tiny "town" for gas. It turned out that the gas station and the police station next to it constituted the entire town. A full gas tank, a bano break, some hot empenadas, and we were on the road - or so we thought. Brian decided to take a sick day. He would not start. We sat there in the heat and wondered what the next step should be. An incredibly sweet Chilean family who spoke as much English as we spoke Chilean saw us and offered to help. After a dozen or so times being towed around the parking lot to see if we could bump start Brian, we gave up and called for assistance. Long story short, the next three days included a crooked mechanic, drag racing hoodlums cruising the streets till the break of dawn, and 753 kilometers with a border crossing executed in three different tow trucks with four different drivers. It also included some of the kindest, friendliest, and most helpful people we could have come in contact with. We are more grateful than words can express. We ended this leg of our adventure in Punta Arenas, Chile at a great hostal where we felt right at home. The owner, Alejandro, did everything he could to help us recover from our road weariness. If you ever get the opportunity to visit Punta Arenas (which happens to be a sister city to Bellingham), be sure to go see him at La Estancia. We said goodbye to Brian and welcomed our new vehicle, Bubble Trouble (a.k.a. Bubble No Trouble, a.k.a. Bubble Tea) to Team Colahan! We are refreshed and ready to start the next leg of our trip. On to more adventures! CC&MC

Wildlife watching in Patagoina

After days of driving across the arid Patagonian Stepp, witch sits in the Andean rain shadow, we were very excited to make it to the southern Atlantic coast. We chose to head to the small town of Puerto Deseado to do some wildlife watching. The area, not visited as heavily as Peninsula Valdes to the north, is truly a hidden treasure for wildlife and ecology enthusiasts. The town itself has a population of about 10,000 people. But it its setting and animal inhabitants that really make it stand out. Ria Deseado, once a river that carried a much greater volume of fresh water, is infiltrated by the tides of the Atlantic Ocean. As the fresh water flow from the river decreases, seawater pushes further and further inland, creating new islands and animal rich habitats. The estuary runs 40 kilometers inland, and was a safe harbor for Magellan in 1520. In 1834 Charles Darwin conducted biological surveys of the estuary, as did Perito Morreno in 1876. We are sure they were all as amazed as we were! We were blessed with an abundance of fauna. Birds included Black oyster catchers, two different species of gulls, Snowy sheathbills, South American turns, the giant Southern Grey petrel, the rare Blue Eyed cormorant, the Imperial cormorant (some of whom fed their young right before us), and of coarse Magellanic penguins. On our tour we were beached at Isla de los Penguinos and spent a sunny afternoon in howling winds surrounded by 30,000 friendly little guys! Our adventure also included a visit to a sea lion colony, where large males lazily sunned themselves surrounded by dozens of smaller females - what a life! Our boat trip was topped off by a playful group of Commerson's dolphins engaging the wake of our vessel. What an experience! A highlight of our time in South America to be sure.

Puerto Deseado - 'River of Desire'

A great trip to Puerto Deseado on the Atlantic coast rewarded us with fantastic wildlife viewing. We took a trip with Darwin Expedicions to the islands among the estuary. More to come soon...