Tonga, Tonga, Tonga

It's Wed. 27th and our last night in Tonga. We are still trying to absorb all that we have seen and experienced, so I will try my best to give a discription of this magical group of islands n the South Pacific.
First the details of he trip:
Nov 10th: Depart Auckland, NZ-Arrival in Nuk'ulofa, Tongatapu-3 hour flight N-NE from NZ.
We arrived on a Sat. evening, late. Sunday in Tonga is a day for church, family, feast, and sleep for all Tongans. Nothing happens in the streets or town. Almost no exceptions. Getting our feet wet in country, Sun. seemed like a good day to ride bikes throughout the island. We found an isolated beach surrounded by rock and a coral reef, and chilled.
While in Tongatapu, we stayed at the Heilala Holiday Lodge, referencing Heilala, the celebration of the King's birthday. We chose a traditional Tongan 'fale', a small hut built South Pacific style. Very basic- bed, cold shower, breakfast. We stayed in Tongatapu for a total of five days, we took a 6 hour tour of the island (the local highlights), enjoyed a traditional Tongan feast and kava ceremony, romed the streets of Nuku'lofa and attemped to make plans for visiting Vava'u and Ha'apai, the island groups north of Tongatapu.

Our feast took place at the local cultural center. We were presented first with a kava ceremony, the means by which all social activities in Tonga begins. Kava is a root that is ground into powder in a wooden bowl. Water is then added, and the mixture is continuously stirred and strained through branches from cocoanut trees, before eventually being served to the chief, and passed around the group (traditionally men) by a young woman. Men and women were invited to join our ceremony. The taste greatly resembles what my imagination tells me sweaty socks would taste like with a dash of black pepper. Lips and tongue turning instantly numb, it is hard not to be very immersed in the ritual chants and songs of the ceremony. Kava ceremonies begin before most functions, including church services, weddings, funerals, and affairs of state. Often they last many hours-sometimes all night. A little light-headed, we joined the line for our feast-enjoying spit-roast pig (with crisp, crackeling skin), tuna cured with citrus, sweet potato, seaweed salad, and a sticky-sweet breaded banana dish.
After the meal, we settled in for the story/dance portion. It was a fantastic show, the legends of the first Tongan rulers being told with song and dance. We enjoyed the evening very much, thanked our hosts and headed home.

Next day we joined Tony, our ex-pat UK tour guide for a trip around the island. Living here 18 years, he gave a wealth of info, many insights into Tongan agriculture (sweet potato is the main crop and export), life and religion. Tongans are Christians, following the missionary work of the 1800's. Never colonized, they have remained an independent Kingdom free from white reign. Methodist, New Wesylian(sp), Seventh Day Adventist, and a small number of Catholic churches comprise most denominations on the island. The largest following is the Morman church, direct from Salt Lake. The Morman churchs are clean, well-built, gated and locked. Schools occupy each church, and with the biggest budget of any school in the country, they are packed with children looking for a good education. We passed 37 of the 49 Morman churches on small Tongatapu during our tour. Several had signs posted 'Speak only English please' on their properties.
Highlights of our day included seeing the blowholes on the north coast (water crashes against the reef, spray exploding through eroded sections), visiting with children after school had let out (they love foreigners, or palangi, carrying cameras), and visiting a stone arch built forever ago (think small-scale Stonehenge).

Well, more on Tonga coming soon, it is late, I'm rambling a bit, and we fly early in the morning back to Auckland, followed by a flight on the 30th to Bangkok.

Love to all,
michael